Should you buy a microbrand as your first watch?

Microbrands haven’t stopped ticking, but should they be your first?

Microbrands have been around a while now, but in the last 10 years there’s been an explosion of them. We were signing up to Watchcrunch recently and were in awe at the list of brands they have you can follow when signing up. Listen we’ve been around for a while (just not here), and the amount of brands that come and go is something else. Which raises the question, should you get one as your first watch?

The big question

Something that’s always bothered us is the amount that come and go. Shit even some of the bigger established brands have signed off recently (RIP NTH). Your first thought might be, ‘doesn’t that mean they’re rarer?’, and yeah sure if you like your watches like you order your steak. But what happens when the crown falls off in 15 years?

We might all jump on the backs of bigger brands for being slow to move, unreactive to what we as customers want, it took years just to get a decent diver under 40mm. But the one thing they’ve always got is their staying power. If your dad bought a Sub back in 1980, he can still get that fixed up today. Even the smaller of the big brands like Tissot are still kicking, they might not be able to fix your watch but they’re still here to replace it if push comes to shove.

So should we worry? Maybe.

Although a lot of parts like movements and straps are a straight swap, beskope things like the dial and hands are impossible for most watches. Take the beautiful Maen at the top of this article, if they go under, where’s a replacement dial coming from if you get too ambitious in the deep end?

The glass half full

Brands come and go, but manufacturing has come a long way. The build quality of watches across the board is only getting better. I remember my grandad telling me about his first dive watch. He was so excited to test it out he chucked it in to a glass of water, it flooded, my grandma still laughs. I’ve never heard of this happening today. Swiss, Chinese, Japanese and US factories and assemblies are top tier, even those that like flashing their cash at the AliExpress sales are safe in the knowledge their $100 diver will be able to do what it says on the tin. This counts for a lot, ‘enthusiast’ watches are built well and should last a lot longer than their vintage counterparts.

Just topping up the optimists glass a tiny bit more, a lot of these brands really aren’t micro anymore. Take a look at Christopher Ward, they’re a full blown watch manufacturer, probably the UKs biggest. That’s a brand only 21 years old, they got a headstart. I wouldn’t be surprised if some of these ‘microbrands’ are doing bigger numbers than their more historic, but less known Swiss counterparts. What I’m getting at, is the brand you’re buying from today might be the next Christopher Ward, but that’s something you have to weigh up for yourself.

So should I buy one as my first watch?

I’m gonna be real with you here. That’s on you.

Your first watch is an important one, mine was an SKX007, picked out after dozens of hours scouring the forums (this thread is burned in to my memory). I still have it, it’s been around the world with me. It was my only watch for years, it’s got a big scratch down the middle of the crystal. I wouldn’t get rid of it under any circumstances. That to me, is why I’d say go for something like my SKX. Yeah some of the microbrands are affordable and on paper offer better value for money, but I know that my Seiko can go off to be fixed up whenever it needs it, which it definitely does.

That being said, I get the appeal of microbrands, I really do. I’ve had a lot over the years from a range of brands. I’ve loved some, flipped others. Almost all were great watches and I’m sure most will last the test of time. But for me personally, if I went back in time knowing what I know now, would I have considered a micro? Probably not. Call me boring, but I like having that safety net.

Before we finish, I want to add. If you love watches, this won’t be the last time you dump a months food money in to one. Buy microbrands, enjoy them, some of my favourite brands are less than a decade old, variety is the spice of life Mr/Mrs reader.

Did you buy a microbrand as your first watch? Disagree? We’re all for it. Let us know what you think below.